Travel the Mother Route of America - October 18th, 2016

We were trying to decide which road will be the best way back to California, then an idea occurred to us; wouldn't it be nice to take the Mother Road back? We'll be experiencing the route that transports 2.5 million people exodus to the west during the 1930s Dust Bowl and Great Depression and only 20 years later served as leisure route for hundreds of thousand vacationers back from the Great War. Oh sure, there is an official 2,451 miles of road straight back to California, but we have no intention of going straight! Grin devilishly, we point our Chase Turtle toward Chicago and gun the engine.

Art Institute of Chicago at Adams Street, Illinois 

Grant Park in Chicago, Illinois

According to Historic66.comsite, Route 66 has never departed from "Historic 66 Route Begin" sign at Adams street in Illinois, but actually at the corner of Jackson boulevard and Lake Shore drive. But in 1933 Jackson boulevard became one way, and worst, lead eastward which dead ended at Lake Michigan. Taken a more sensible approach, we started from the most iconic landmark in Illinois, the Buckingham Fountain at Columbus drive. As our luck wouldn't have it, one the largest fountains in the world was turned off for cleaning after years and years of operation. So much for the 150 feet magnificent geyser, or more than dozen beautiful jets from top basins and on perimeter, or from the seahorse mouths that represent neighboring states - none, nada! The singular jet that strips gunk and deposits was from the red fire truck parked next to the fountain.

An empty Buckingham Fountain

Only a red fire truck provide some level of entertainment 

No fountain ushered us to the Wild West, so we found another way reign in our Lady Luck. By rubbing the big shiny bean for good luck, of course. The Cloud Gate sculpture in Millennium Park represents the world largest and heaviest stainless steel bean, weigh in at whooping 100 tons. This enormous sculpture formed by 168 highly polished stainless steel plates that were manufactured in Oakland California, then trucked to Millennium Park in Chicago to be assembled, welded, polished and majestically perched on top of the restaurant reinforced roof. We didn't even realized underneath the huge platform was a restaurant (only one that doesn't pay property tax, ever!), Grant Park garage, and even working Metra train tracks.

Cloud Gate sculpture with Chicago skyline reflection

The navel of Cloud Gate

Taken refreshment in front of shiny bean

Rubbing the shiny bean for good luck

The unforgettable Chicago night scenes are made possible by the tiny Braidwood Generating Station in northeastern Illinois. Built in 1988, this nuclear plant generating 2400 megawatts to power the city of Chicago as well as northern Illinois. The surrounding 33,000 peoples live within 10 miles radius of Braidwood maybe expose to some low level of tritium leak (water bottles are distributed to residents living nearby, courtesy of Braidwood parent company Excelon) as well as potential core damage to the reactor if earthquake is intense enough. We quickly took some pictures of this old Route 66 scenic view, then skitdaddle without looking back.

Braidwood Nuclear Facility along Route 66

Gemini Giant mascot at the Launching Pad Drive-In further down Route 66

Continued to Gardner Illinois, we visited the tiny Two-Cell Jail built in 1906. With the population peaking out around 1,000 people on 3 square mile radius, we suppose that crimes were not big among coal miners? The jail was actually one small room divided by vertical bars to 3 even smaller sections; 2 individual cells each has a cot and a bucket. The guard’s section has a small wooden desk and a wood-burning stove. Pried open the heavy and rusty cell door, and slipped behind the thick bars for couple of pics, and darker thoughts crossed our minds "what if the rusty door seizes close, and no one around to hear our scream?". This stark Two-Cell Jail continues to serve this village for more than 40 years and finally closed in late 1950s.

Two-Cell Jail with its heavy doors

Ambler's Texaco Gas Station in Dwight, Illinois 

The Oughton Estate Windmill in Dwight Illinois locates further south of Route 66, is also a National Register of Historic Places. This windmill used to pumped water from a deep well to its 88-barrel container locates at the top, then distributes to the home of Dr. Leslie Keeler, the founder of a revolutionary alcoholism treatment with motto "Drunkenness is a disease and I can cure it". Together with John Oughton, an Irish chemist, they formed the infamous Keeler Institute in 1879. They began Keely Cure treatment for the rich-and-famous right out of their house, which by then has grown into 35 rooms estate. At its peak, there were about 200 branches throughout United State and Europe. But not everyone can afford injection of gold chloride, nor believed drunkards were anything but neurotics. Dr. Leslie Keeler died on February 1900 from a heart attacked. The institute lost its main advocator and defender and gradually faded into oblivion.

Oughton Estate Windmill

Back in 1930, all large gasoline stations featured functional yet standardized station designs. Just one look, drivers could tell if it's a Texaco, Phillip, or Pure Oil. William Sprague thought of personalizing his gas station like many small businesses at that time; offered gas station that part manor, part exclusive restaurant, part car repair and became quite successful until 1940. At the time, Sprague's Super Service in Normal Illinois represents the apex of this trend. Then the new four-lane Route 66 bypassed Sprague's Super Service station and life in Normal, well, no longer normal. The gas station novelty gradually dwindled into National Register of Historical Places.

Sprague Super Service Station with its new landscape

Standard Oil Gasoline Station in Odell, Illinois

Along Route 66 in Bloomington Illinois, we visited David Davis three-story yellow brick mansion once belonged to Supreme Court judge (1862-1877). This is one of the mansion we visited that retains all the original furnitures, wall papers, gas lamps, coal fireplaces… Judge Davis persuaded Abraham Lincoln to run for President and was mentoring Lincoln on many aspect of laws during his life time.

Judge David Davis mansion in Bloomington, Illinois

The mansion library

Commonly seeing him on 5 dollar bill and 1 cent coin, this great man achievements was anything but common. To learn about the legacy of our 16th president, Abraham Lincoln, the quest took us 73 miles further south of Normal Illinois. From the offered tour, we found Lincoln was a hard-fought American politician, a self-taught lawyer, an avid inventor with a patent credited to his creativity. Lincoln has been ranked by scholars and the public as one of the three greatest US presidents. At his first and the only private house in Springfield Illinois, we learnt from the tour that Lincoln was born into a poor family, and later marry a wealthy Mary Todd (whose family owned many slaves), and together they had 4 sons. However, only the oldest son Robert Lincoln grew into an adult, Eddie died from tuberculosis at 3 years of age, Willie died from typhoid fever at 11, and Tad died from indeterminable cause at 18.

Lincoln modest home in Springfield, Illinois

Lincoln kitchen where maids (not slaves) preparing meals

Lincoln's boat lift invention

The Old State Capitol in Springfield, Illinois

Illinois House of Representatives on the second floor

With amazing strength, Lincoln has endured the lost of sons, upheld liberty and equality in United States, vindicating democracy, and his views on slavery were rock solid consistent (from inside his home, as well as nation wide effort) until his death in 1865. Later that day, we paid a short visit to Lincoln's Tomb in Oak Ridge Cemetery in Springfield Illinois where most members of Lincoln family interred (Robert was buried at Arlington National Cemetery). At the base of the tomb, one can find Lincoln bronze head with shiny nose from those hands rubbing it for good luck. Well, we actually touch Lincoln nose just because it was curiously shinier than the rest of his face.

Lincoln's Tomb and War Memorials State Historic Site

Passing the famous Gateway Arch in St Louis Missouri, we knew that soon we'll be in the most amazing site 100 miles south of Lincoln's Tomb; the Cahokia Mounds State Historic Site. This is the one of 23 UNESCO World Heritage sites in US where it was once harbored the most advance and complex civilization that beginning more than 1000 years before the European arrival.

Monks Mound at the street level

Top of Monks Mound with school students making their way up the 154 steps

During in 800 CE, there were upward of 20,000 people used to live here in 6 miles radius. The inhabitants formed a center of cultural, religious, and economic that scholars called Mississippian culture to attributes its existence to Mississippi River Valley. The influence of Mississippian culture extended to neighboring communities of Great Lakes, Eastern Midwest, and reach further Southeastern of United States. The Monks Mound is predominant feature at the historical site, stood at 100 feet height and covers 14 acres was one of the largest manmade earthen structure at the time. On top of Monks Mound, a 50 feet tall and 5000 square feet chieftain resident or village temple situated on top providing a commanding view. To the south, a grand plaza next to the Monks Mound served as ceremonies or game stadium. To the west, a woodhenge to allow inhabitants to track agriculture cycles. There are total of 120 mounds all different shapes and sizes to serve different purposes. What was once the peak of advanced civilization in North America have suddenly vanished without a trace around 1200 AD. Researchers have found evidence of catastrophic flood from nearby Mississippi River that may have wiped out its inhabitants.

A thousand years old Birger figurine represents Earth Mother

Ramey tablet with severed trophy heads on the front, and ivory billed woodpeckers on the back

Figurine depicts chunkey game played with spears

Resting near Twin Mounds

After passing Rainbow Bridge in Kansas, we arrived at the glamorous Coleman Theater in Miami (pronounce "Me-ah-me") Oklahoma. From the tour, we learnt that George Coleman was the man behind this opulence theater. The story goes like while drilling for water well, he pulled up some blueish white metal that was soft, malleable, the same metallic substance that army craves. In 1905, Coleman sizable fortunes came from his productive lead and zinc ore deposits and contributed much of the World War 1 lead supply. By 1938, Coleman received the largest mining buyout from Eagle-Pitcher Mining and Smelting company and became the most wealthy man in town. Settling down with massive wealth, Coleman began building hospital, hotel, and school in Miami Oklahoma, and also known for his charitable givings. The opulence Coleman Theater was constructed in 1929 to his legacy, completed with gargoyles, dolphins, cherubs and face decorated throughout this beautiful theater.

However, there is much darker legacy Coleman left behind from the tailings of 14,000 lead mines surrounding Pitcher; these mountains of "chat" piles were so contaminated that EPA has declared Pitcher to be "America's Most Toxic Town" in 2009, and by June 2015 there is only one person left. The city's pharmacist named Gary Linderman, who vowed to stay as long as there is anyone left who needed him, and to be the last one out of the city. Linderman died on June 6, 2015 at age 60 and the small town dies with him.

On to more delightful attraction on the Mother Road, to the perfectly round barn of Arcadia Oklahoma. Built in 1898, the Arcadia Round Barn measured at 60 feet diameter and 43 feet high, is one of the few barns in United States has round rafters, round roof, and round wall for it shape. All walls and roof were made by soaking green burr oak planks until soft then bend them in special jigs to create the rounded shape of the barn. The second floor was upgraded to hard wood flooring which well suited for local social gathering and dancing. Walking on the squeaking and shinny wood planks, we can smell the freshly applied lacquers, and cookie-like smell from thousand of oak planks covered from floor to roof, and remember the architect name, William Odor.

Round Barn of Arcadia, Oklahoma

The second level serves as dance floor and other public functions

Thousand of oak planks covered from floor to roof 

40 miles further south of Arcadia Round Barn along Route 66, we stumbled on larger-than-life sculptures depicting the famous Land Run in April 1889, or better known as 89er. During the land run, each of the 50,000 settlers made mad dash to unassigned land to claim 160 acres for him or herself from total of 2 million acres took from Indian tribes (Muskogee, Seminole, Cherokee, and Chickasaw who aligned with the Confederacy south, and after the Civil War ended in 1865, so were their lands). The energy and heighten emotion of the land run were captured in full chaos, confusion, and excitement from 45 bronze statues in mid flight by renown artist Paul Moore. He is a citizen of the Muskogee nation, and coincidentally his great-grandfather was participated in the same land run that his ancestors took refuge after the devastating "Trail of Tears" in 1838.

Paul's 47-piece monument when completed, will cover total of 365 feet, making it overall the largest sculpture in the world. Walking around and under the sculptures which started from one side of the river and continue to the other side, we marveled at the massive scale of the entire sequence and inexplicably drawn in the stampeded energy from the sculptures as if we have become one with the settlers, racing ahead to put a stake in the ground before sun down.

Bricktown Canal near Land Run sculptures

Waterfalls along Bricktown Canal river 

We can faintly remember Ramone's Automotive Body and Paint Shop in 2006 animated movie Cars, then seeing the Tower Conoco Station in Shamrock Texas jolt our memories, and with widen smiles "Oh Yeah! This is the place alright!" This green glazed tile building built in 1936 that houses both gas station and restaurant with very distinctive two flared towers (two nails) on top of the Art-deco style building (representing the soil). The building concept came about when one of the owner's friend scratch out the plans for the building in the dirt using a old nail. Standing underneath station elegant roof, we were half-expecting Lightning McQueen and Doc Hudson to show up in any minutes.

Tower Conoco Station in Shamrock, Texas

Inspiration for Ramone's automotive body and paint shop of animated movie Cars

Tower Conoco Station side parking

From Tower Station in Texas, we drove 260 miles west to get to the bluest of blue lagoon in the middle of hot and dry desserts of New Mexico. We got to the Blue Hole in Santa Rosa late afternoon and can see throng of locals and tourists already there, and couple of scuba divers ready to descent into 81 feet deep of clear blue artesian water. The pool is only 60 feet diameter at the top, but as big as 130 feet across at the bottom according to one enthusiastic diver. She said the pool bottom wasn't flat, there is a system of passageways that reaches 194 feet farther down below.

Beautiful artisan fed spring Blue Hole in Santa Rosa, New Mexico

Benignly calm but deadly

The cave entrance has been grated over and rocks were poured to prevent entry by novice or even professional divers. The measure was in place after 2 novice divers got lost in the caves and died in 1976. Fast forward to 2013, 2 elite deep sea divers obtained a rare permission for multi-day exploration into enigmatic caverns. Both have more 20 years of deep sea wreck dive experience under their belts. But history have strange way of repeating itself nearly 40 years later. During one of their many dives in the Blue Hole, when “everything went terribly wrong,” the other diver somehow became disoriented inside the narrow cavern passageways and entombed overnight.

We were approaching the prettiest part of Route 66, the Painted Desert Inn which locates inside Arizona Petrified Forest National Park. Enter the park from north I-40, we passed through intensely colorful badlands. The arid landscape generally devoid of any greeneries, now bustling with green grass, flowers, and the hills have transformed into intense hues which owe much to last week rain.

Self portrait in Petrified National Park, Arizona

Chase Turtle in front of Petrified National Park entrance

230 million years old Petrified wood is intensely colorful quartz

Natural bridge from exposed petrified tree 

Last week rain spawn greens in Petrified National Park 

The Painted Desert Inn originally built out of petrified wood in 1924 by Herbert Lore. After extensive remodeling in 1937 by Civilian Conservation Corps, and then again by architect Mary Jane Colter in 1947. It operated as exclusive hotel and restaurant by Fred Harvey until 1963. But the romantic Painted Desert Inn closed in 1942 as America shifted resource away from domestic programs. Dilapidated and neglected for nearly 27 years, it even scheduled for demolition in 1975, but after public protests the Inn's made remarkable come back in 1987; the building transformed into beautiful Pueblo style which incorporated exquisite petrified woods decor on some wall sections, rustic plate glass windows, Hopi murals on the dining room and lunch room walls, second floor patio looking out into the Painted Desert has magnificent view in our opinions.

Mary J. Colter remodeled Painted Desert Inn in 1947

"Exposed" petrified wood paneling at the rear of the inn

Pueblo-styled roof, windows, and exposed rafters

Little did we know that we were following architecture trail laid out by Mary Jane Colter on another Route 66 destination. Architecturally larger and significantly more complex is the La Posada Historic District in Winslow Arizona. Here, one can find La Posada Rancho adobe walls, niches for saints, red terra cotta roofs, and wooden shutters and iron grilles on windows, flagstone floors, exposed ceiling beams. While some guests arrived by cars, others arrived by Amtrak from Winslow Train Station just 250 feet away from the hotel. We didn't stay the night there seeing the train station too close for a good night comfort, but continue to Seligman Historic District about 130 miles west of La Posada.

La Posada Historic District in Winslow, Arizona  

If any town put you right into scenes from the 2006 animated Cars, it's the Seligman Historic District. Leave the Chase Turtle behind, we walked the Main Street and struck up conversation with some shop owners. There were times when folks here happy and content with simple life in this small town; dancing on hardwood floors behind Ted's Fountain & Trading Post (now Historic Seligman Sundries) building, drinks and souvenir hunting at Rusty Bolt, enjoy the abundant petrol at Siligman Gas Station, town people can still get "cheese burger with cheese" or "dead chicken" from a Juan Degadillo's Snow Cap Drive-In built from scrap lumber, or peeking inside the 1960 Territorial Jail that held notable outlaws such as Three Finger Jack, Jim Younger, as well as 4 Navajo Indians. Well, the jail couldn't held on to the Indians for they made a successful escaped by tunneling from the jail cell to OK Saloon basement. Back in town, most shop owners here are not the original people, but folks moved to here from all over states, abiet some are descendants. Hell, even Seligman was located a mile southeast from its original location. Most of the houses and businesses were moved piece by piece to their present location according to Route66 chronicles published from 1960 through 1966.

Historic Seligman Sundries

Rusty Bolt

Snow Cap Drive-In

Territorial Jail

Road Kill Cafe

Olsen's Chevrolet Dealership (now serves as restaurant and gift shop)

Approaching the "dead man's curve" segment of Route 66, the Oatman Topock Highway near California border, we can see remnant of a orange wreck car with it twisted metal on the mountain side. After 1931, this dangerous segment of Route 66 have gone through numerous realignments, this scenic route now twisted through Black Mountain at the highest point of 5,400 feet and gradually drop down to 2,700 feet at old mining town of Oatman. The gold riches were not the reason this old town survives however, it was throng of tourists feeding local economy as well as the burros. The wild burros wander the streets waiting patiently for treats, and some cases they waited right in front of the store selling burro foods. They were once pack animals for the gold miners, but released to fend for themselves when the mines closed. The adult jacks and jennets are tame, but the baby foals will kick and bite. We squinted to look at a small sticker on a foal's forehead "STOP - Do not feed me anything" and gently pulling back the treats.

Cool Springs pit stop before Oatman, Arizona 

Working outhouse at Cool Springs, Arizona

A foal sunning itself in Oatman, Arizona

Free parking on this side of Boatman

Park on this side will cost you $10 payable to that old cowboy busy texting there

Hand feeding the local population

So many mouths to feed

The small sign says "STOP - Do not feed me anything", don't worry, its not dead

After Oatman, we were heading to Wigwam Village in California, which some people remember it as Cozy Cone Motel in the animated movie Cars. Albeit our Chase Turtle doesn't sleep inside the Cozy Cone, we do!

Wigwam motel in San Bernando, Los Angeles

Our very own Cozy Cone

Built in 1949, the 19-foot tepees made from wood frame, concrete, and stuco. These materials are far cry from buffalo hide and log poles, but it actually big and warm inside. One can find queen size bed, huge flat screen cable TV, a fridge, a leather love seat, warm shower and a toilet. All very clean and very cozy! We slept like babies that night and dream of Sally Carrera with pinstripe tattoo dancing around our Cozy Cone until the next morning.

Very spacious inside with queen bed, sofa, fridge, flatscreen TV, shower and toilet

After quick breakfast, we drove to Colorado Street Bridge in Pasadena California. The 144-foot height historic concrete arch bridge spanning the across Arroyo Seco Channel started its life as world tallest concrete bridge in 1913. The bridge curve gracefully for each of its eleven arches to find firmest footing on soft river bed below. Looking up at the withering height bridge from Arroyo Blvd below, we suddenly came to a realization where the nickname "Suicide Bridge" originated. Over the years, there were hundreds of jumpers there, and the most recent leapt was just last October 2015. The ill-fated jumper was a known MTV host and a famed model.

Colorado Street Bridge in Pasadena, California 

Walking on Colorado Street Bridge

Spanish styled condo as seen from the bridge  

Just a mere mile away, another historic site from Route 66 that some people called the beginning of 1920 Los Angeles car culture. The Arroyo Seco Parkway was the first "freeway" in the West and an engineering marvel of its time. By today standards, the freeway short on- and offramp and the half-banking turns together with high speed driving on very narrow lanes may cause anxiety for some drivers, perhaps even trigger the lane departure warning in some cars. But we loved the historical aspect of the Arroyo Seco parkway and enjoying our pleasant drive to final destination on Route 66, the Santa Monica Pier.

Arroyo Seco Parkway that started 1920 Los Angeles car culture

Arrived at the pier around noontime and already see load of tourists and locals milling around small shops lined on both sides of the pier. Here tourists can occupy themselves with nostalgic rides in Pacific Park, try a Orishi hot dog from Japadog stand, get your palm read by Anna, or just drop by modern Bubba Gump for a Shrimp Lovers appetizer, taste the charbroiled Bourbon Street Mahi Mahi with grilled shrimps and spiked up your meal with sweet Mojito… Our lunch was served with Santa Monica beach just outside our table.

Santa Monica Historical Marker

Amusement park on Santa Monica Pier

Bob Waldmire is the inspiration for animated character, VW minibus named Fillmore in the movie Cars

Our simple meal at the end of Route 66 at Bubba Gump

Sweet Mojito at Bubba Gump

The end of Route 66

Standing underneath the last of Route 66 sign, we were sadden that Mother Road trip finally comes to an end. Looking back at thousand of miles we have travelled since Chicago, the very trail that thousands has gone before us, we've learned so much from our country past history and our changing culture. But the vastness of experiences paradoxically overwhelming us; with new things discovered, still more new things to learn. A small voice whispers in our ears "the more we learn, the less we know" like the ghost echoing from the 2,500 miles past.

GPS Coordinates:

Buckingham Fountain, Chicago, Il - 41°52'32.9"N 87°37'08.3"W
Cloud Gate sculpture, Chicago, Il - 41°52'57.6"N 87°37'23.9"W
Two-Cell Jail, Gardner, Il - 41°11'18.4"N 88°18'17.0"W
Oughton Estate Windmill, Dwight, Il - 41°05'21.4"N 88°25'43.7"W
Sprague's Super Service, Normal, Il - 40°31'03.2"N 88°58'50.7"W
Lincoln Home, Springfield, Il - 39°47'51.1"N 89°38'46.4"W
Lincolns Tomb, Springfield, Il - 39°49'23.6"N 89°39'20.6"W
Cahokia Mounds State Historic Site, Collinsville, Il - 38°39'17.9"N 90°03'33.5"W
Coleman Theater, Miami, Ok - 36°52'35.4"N 94°52'40.4"W
Round Barn, Arcadia, Ok - 35°39'44.5"N 97°19'33.5"W
Land Run Scuptures, Oklahoma City, Ok - 35°27'40.7"N 97°30'16.3"W
Tower Conoco Station, Shamrock, Tx - 35°13'36.1"N 100°14'56.0"W
Blue Hole, Santa Rosa, NM - 34°56'25.9"N 104°40'23.9"W
Painted Desert Inn, Petrified Forest National Park, Az - 35°05'01.9"N 109°47'19.8"W
La Posada Historic District, Winslow, Az - 35°01'17.1"N 110°41'41.4"W
Seligman Historic District, Seligman, Az - 35°19'35.7"N 112°52'33.6"W
Oatman, Arizona - 35°01'37.1"N 114°23'03.6"W
Wigwam Village (Cozy Cones), San Bernadino, Ca - 34°06'26.0"N 117°21'00.1"W
Colorado Street Bridge, Pasadena, Ca - 34°08'40.5"N 118°09'52.5"W
Arroyo Seco Parkway, Los Angeles, Ca - 34°05'11.1"N 118°12'44.4"W
Santa Monica Pier, Los Angeles, Ca - 34°00'33.6"N 118°29'48.5"W

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http://keyemmaine.blogspot.com/ - November 14th, 2016

References:

- Destination details were extracted from respective attraction, hand-out literature/brochure, or website, and Wikipedia

- Coordinates are from Goggle Map in Degrees, Minutes, and Seconds (DMS formatted)